"As long as necessary"
Since the beginning of the pandemic in March 2020, Azerbaijan has maintained the closure of its land and sea borders for entry, while allowing unrestricted entry via air travel. This decision has persisted despite the World Health Organization ending the global pandemic emergency on May 5. The government has extended the ban on crossing land borders for over three years, citing the need to prevent the spread of diseases. Azerbaijan's only open land border is the 13-kilometer slice between Turkey and Azerbaijan's exclave of Nakhchivan. However, this measure has faced criticism and questions about its underlying motivations.

The primary reason given Main suspected reason for the border closure is to prevent the influx of Russian draft dodgers into the country, especially from Dagestan. This policy is believed to be a response to the experiences of neighboring nations like Kazakhstan and Georgia, which have struggled with an influx of Russians. Despite its apparent rationale, critics point out that Russians could still enter via air travel rendering this explanation insufficient. Based on monthly and annual reports of State Tourism Agency of the Republic of Azerbaijan and Azerbaijan tourism board 375 100 total arrivals from Russian Federation between January and July 2023, 446 831 during 2022 and 258,315 during 2021, 73% increased 2022 - 2021, decreased - 52% 2022 - 2019.

The continued closure has led to speculation among the public about other potential causes, especially as the government releases only brief statements without elaboration. Some experts believe that security concerns play a role, especially given the ongoing tensions with Iran and Armenia.

Despite the official stance, public sentiment is divided. Critics argue that the closure violates principles of equality and could be linked to special interests benefiting from the border restrictions. They highlight the inconsistency in allowing residents of Nakhichevan to cross the border and allowing foreigners to leave, while denying the same privilege to citizens living elsewhere in Azerbaijan.

While the government maintains its stance, calls for a gradual reopening of borders continue, especially for students and other citizens facing challenges due to the restrictions. And in social media, in the comments under the news about extension of the quarantine, there is an extremely negative reaction from the population. Inspired by the emotions of citizens and wanting to collect a holistic picture of the situation, I took up this journey.
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Having not found convincing information on the network, I went by taxi to the nearest border with the hope of finding answers along the road or not at the customs point, as I did right before quarantine in 2019 through the border checkpoint in Sadikhli, Tovuz, Azerbaijan.


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At the gate of the border checkpoint in Balakan, Azerbaijan, I was met by the military, who, having learned that I was a citizen of Azerbaijan, reported that they were not allowed to pass. Only foreigners are allowed to leave. Briefly saying that I have a special case and I want to meet someone above who will at least answer questions, I received an answer that I can only apply to the cabinet of ministers and wait at least two weeks. I also learned there that the border is open for cargo trucks and went back to the city on Sergey's track who is going back from Turkey to Russia through Georgia and Azerbaijan. 2023
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After the first failed attempt, I ditched the frontier town. With population 15 000 it looked empty, like the shopping center on the square of the Balakan bus station, as well as the bus station itself. The cashier's door only was opened by 11 pm for the bus to Baku. Balakan. 2023
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Islam is a waiter in a tea house waiting for the borders to open. "I will go to work with my father in Russia, there are few people left in the city and there are also few jobs. Previously, tourists from Georgia came, and there were those who stopped here when leaving. Now only trucks pass from here and while they are waiting for customs clearance, they linger here.
Since it is impossible to leave and it is impossible to buy goods from Georgia, but local people can export food on the trucks. We mainly ship nuts and walnuts to Turkey from here." Balakan. 2023
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As Islam described, by nightfall several local guys who had nothing to do showed up in the "Khan" tea house, they came to chat about nothing and drink beer or tea out of boredom. And a group of Polish drivers who get drunk before sleep while waiting for a pass. Balakan. 2023
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At the Red Bridge border checkpoint, the situation was similar - abandoned booth counters, an empty bus station and a tea house with it, and many taxi drivers from nearby villages still with the hope of at least somehow earning some money. Red Bridge, Azerbaijan 2023
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From time to time minibuses plying for passengers between Gazakh city and villages Shyshly 1 and Shyshly 2 with several foreigners come to the bus station. And intercity buses with a final stop here that recruit people only in Gazakh. Red Bridge, Azerbaijan 2023
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Farid is a 27 years old waiter of the tea house who lives in Shykhly 2. "All these places was full of people. Currently we are working generally for bus and taxi drivers and sometimes truck drivers coming in. We are earning enough to make ends meet (dolanmaq)." Red Bridge, Azerbaijan 2023
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During 6 hours in the tea house while waiting for the bus to Baku, counting me as well, they had only 6 visitors. Nazim, the one whom I met shared "Borders are closed mainly to control the entry of "relocatesors" from Russia. And such ticket prices in the range of 200 euros are only to ensure that those entering were wealthy. Otherwise, who will come here first? Dagestanis. Despite the fact that they are primarily sent to war. If there were no closed borders, all of them would be here." Red Bridge, Azerbaijan 2023
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One of a dozen abandoned booths in the outer waiting area of the border checkpoint where only several taxi drivers spend their time waiting, who did not want to get on the frame. Red Bridge, Azerbaijan 2023
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"Borders are still closed to relocate ethnic Armenians from liberated lands of Karabakh. People who left for Armenia do not have access back along the land border. Access to Azerbaijan is only by air flights, and there are no air flights from that country. Thus, without offending anyone, the situation is resolved." said bus driver Fizuli. Shikhli, Azerbaijan 2023
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Till march 2020 this line was a favorite way of transportation for travelers crossing the South Caucasus, and tourists who came to one of the capitals having the opportunity to visit the second one in one night. Baku, Azerbaijan 2019
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I am nostalgic about traveling between the neighboring capital on "Train 37", I found a 2019 shot - a border check at the "Boyuk Kasik" station near the border. Then I went to the city station for a ticket to the current terminus to find out what is known about the current position of the railway line.
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When I got to the station schedule, I was greeted by an extra huge display on which the time of the same route shone with "small" changes - now the train was moving not to PM, but to AM, and most importantly, the final one was not Tbilisi, but Agstafa. Baku, Azerbaijan 2023
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Despite all the changes, I still took the ticket not for the destination but for the path to the answers. And on the platform I was met no longer by Soviet trains, but by modern high-speed ones. Baku, Azerbaijan 2023
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The new mode of transportation was more like aircraft transport than twelve-hour travel, to the rhythmic clatter of wheels. At this speed, I talked with Nurai, who did not risk the trust of her jealous husband from Trabzon and be highlighted in the media. But she spoke about her life in Trabzon, from which she was delighted. She has also been trapped in quarantine and is looking forward to meeting those wonderful and hardworking people, two houses in the city and out of it. And the husband, not being able to leave work, so he can only visit them from time to time. To my question, why not take a ticket, she says that she is afraid of airplanes and, in principle, it is very expensive to take a ticket besides herself and also for children. Sahil, Azerbaijan 2023
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5 hours later the train is arrived to the current terminus in Agstafa. Most passengers leaved on previous station in Ganja, so the platforms was not so crowded. Therefore, the person with the camera attracted the attention of all, and everyone had one reaction - to cover their faces, the curtains of the driver's cab, or simply turn away. Agstafa, Azerbaijan 2023
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Rahib has been working in the railway industry for about seven years. After the conversation, it became clear that the old lines are no longer suitable for modern trains and that the railroads to the border are currently being renovated. Agstafa, Azerbaijan 2023
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The rest of the workers resting at the end station in the tea house of it were not entirely sociable and said that they were not allowed to appear in the media and offered to talk with the owner of the tea house. Agstafa, Azerbaijan 2023
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The lady from the tea booth at the station said that the number of people has significantly decreased. In her chaishop, railway workers now mainly rest between work. According to her version, the situation is dragging on, because the construction of a new railway is underway, and they say border will open something by the end of the year, or even maybe at the beginning of the next. But at the end of the conversation, she chose to hide her identity due to the fact that her son would be against. Agstafa, Azerbaijan 2023
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To get to the border had to change two minibuses. To Gazakh and from that bus station to the Red Bridge. On the way, the driver Faiq said that it was impossible to cross to Georgia through the border post. And the situation will not change until the Lachin corridor is resolved, and this is only in the hands of Erdogan. Now only citizens of Georgia can cross the land border back to their side, and the same is true of Azerbaijani citizens from that side to here. Agstafa, Azerbaijan 2023
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The Cabinet of Ministers, where all officials referred, at the entrance they asked for documents, made notes and said that they needed to go to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs with the wishes "Allah komeyin olsun" (Let the God help you). Baku, Azerbaijan, 2023
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Although the minibus was full at the exit from the bus station in Gazakh, as a result it turned out that most of the passengers got off to the last village of Shykhly 2. Gazax, Azerbaijan 2023
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On this way, one of the passengers was Rafiq Alijanov, an Azerbaijani citizen who accompanied his niece, a Georgian citizen who married an Azerbaijani citizen and her son, who is therefore an Azerbaijani by passport. Gazax, Azerbaijan 2023
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Rafik says that all this is in order not to overload the road. They are expanding it because they are building completely new highways. Not only does the road pass through sections in my name for which they pay coins, you still have to spend hundreds on air tickets and endure all these difficulties. His wife, a citizen of Georgia, is there now, because tickets are too expensive - about 300 manats. Shikhli 1, Gazax, Azerbaijan 2023
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Pointing to a new road, he says - somewhere there were my lands. And in the end of the conversation, he confidently confirmed what the previous driver had said that we could also get to Azerbaijan from Georgia by land. Gazax, Azerbaijan 2023
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To cross the border, they have to make a passport for the one and a half year old Tunjay. So, having received a power of attorney from his father, they came to ASAN Service in Tovuz for a passport. "To overcome 300 meters, my child and I had to fly to Baku. Also, I had to buy a separate ticket for the child, which is only 30 - 40 manats less. If for me it costs about 200 manats, then for a child about 150 manats and then cross the whole country. The poor baby is on the road for the third day." says Tunjay's mother after they were given a suitcase while passing through the village of Shikhly 2. Azerbaijan 2023
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On the minibus to the final stop - the border point, only we arrived. The military at the gate, after speaking with the office, invited me to check if my name was on the list of allowed passes. Red Bridge, Azerbaijan 2023
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Having checked the documents, they said that they could not miss it, since there was no name on the list. But at least finally there were people who exactly answered all the questions on the current conditions for passage along the land border and at the end pointed to the hotline number 1658. And so only foreign citizens can leave the country. Rumors about the possibility of Azerbaijani citizens to enter are not true. Unless if someone has died and there is a copy of the death certificate or in case of emergency, if you receive the code within about 15 days from the Cabinet of Ministers, after which they will notify all customs points. Red Bridge, Azerbaijan 2023
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Upon returning to Baku, we met with Myalak, who at that time was going to fly to the neighboring capital. In the course of communication, she said that she had canceled her trip due to an increase in prices by the only airline operating flights to Tbilisi for the summer season. Azerbaijan, 2023
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She also told about her good friend Hidde Zwirs from the Netherlands who was preparing for a trip. As part of this trip, he planned to explore the South Caucasus and after Tbilisi come to Caspian coast. Having learned about the current situation and prices to Baku, he changed his plans to Yerevan. And so their long-awaited meeting did not take place. Baku, Azerbaijan, 2023
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Convinced of the impossibility of leaving through the land and having reconciled like every citizen with the prices of air travel, I took a ticket for the next date to explore the situation on the other side of the closed border. Baku, Azerbaijan, 2023
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Upon entering the plane, I realized how emotionally I was under the pressure of being in closed borders. During the flight, I noticed that most of the passengers were not citizens of Azerbaijan. Mostly there were foreigners flying in transit. Baku, Azerbaijan, 2023
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At the door to the Azerbaijani embassy in Tbilisi, they said that they did not know anything more than the rest, since it was not in their unit. "To pass through the border, you should write an email to the Cabinet of Ministers and receive a code. In this case, you do not even need to come to the embassy." Tbilisi, Georgia, 2023
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We are from Barda and study here. Now we are trying to cross the border, because we do not have money to buy tickets. There I somehow worked as a worker and borrowed money to come here, but going back is even more expensive. Why do I, as a citizen, need to obtain all these permits in order to return to my country?
Two years at least it was possible to obtain permission. I remember here at the embassy here was a long line of cars trying to get a pass. Then I accompany my mate to the border - the Red Bridge. Also a friend from Gazakh, the village of Shikhly 2, who went to Baku to fly here to Tbilisi and go to Gordobani for the funeral. Tbilisi, Georgia, 2023
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In Lagodekhi, while looking for individuals of Azerbaijani nationality, despite the fact that everyone referred to the village of Gabali, not far from the border, I met 49-year-old Teimur. Notwithstanding the possession of an Azerbaijani passport, he has been residing in Georgia since 2004, totaling two decades. Lagodekhi, Georgia, 2023
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Here he has two motorcycles, mainly transporting cargo around the village on one of them to earn a living. Also he has a walnut garden in Gakh, which is his main income, but he has not been able to go there for about 4 years. Lagodekhi, Georgia, 2023
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"The country also set restrictions and fined me for not being able to go, having spent about 500 manats in both directions on air travel to renew my passport." Teymur says. Lagodekhi, Georgia, 2023
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Drive to the village of Kabali, where everyone referred in search of ethnic Azerbaijanis. The first who met me was the 55 years old ashug of the village in the second generation - the son of Mohammed - Ali Bek Farajov. Acquaintance with him began with his poems dedicated to the chains of mountains that continue to the territory of Azerbaijan and every morning remind him of this connection. Gabali, Georgia, 2023
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"During the time of Heydar A., we were not left without attention, flour and butter were sent here. Now everything has stopped, besides, for years they have closed the borders in our face and we have to pay hundreds just to visit relatives and friends on the other side. I ask the president to renew support for underprivileged Azerbaijani families on this side." Gabali, Georgia, 2023
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Having stayed and got acquainted with the whole large family of the Farajevs, the next day, on their recommendation, I managed to reach at least to the end of the big Sunday Kabali bazaar. Here, Eltun became my interlocutor, who began with the fact that the auction continues, except that there is less Azerbaijani tea.
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"The closed borders made life more difficult for us, the citizens of Azerbaijan. A lot of people there were left without income. Even workers here earn 40 - 55 lari per day, in Azerbaijan such work costs 17 manats. Previously, having the opportunity to only cross the border three times in a month, I filled up the car there, it was a little cheaper than here. On the way back, at the border, women came up and asked for a ride here. Many women came here to work, pick
grapes during the season, and so on. They earned 10 manats for the same work there."- told Eltun, then introduced him to his assistant.
"I have relatives from Balakan, when communicating, they always describe their difficulties there. If we don't like something, we can express it and we can get justice, I don't understand why people there can't express their opinion. Even last week, hundreds of us signed a petition to the President of Azerbaijan to open land borders." - said Eltun, driving me to the road from the market.
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I first met Peter and his road mate Martin in Oni while driving in Georgia. Their image of real travelers was significantly different from everyone else. But since it was far from the borders with Azerbaijan, I did not load them with questions. Gomi, Georgia, 2023
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The next time we met them in Gomi and got to know each other, we exchanged impressions about the trip around Georgia. Martin, having told about their route from London to Sydney, it became known that their route, according to the plan, also passed through Azerbaijan along the coast of the Caspian Sea. But due to not having the opportunity, they had to go around to across the borders of Russia. Gomi, Georgia, 2023
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After talking with Martin and Peter, I remembered that in numerous conversations with travelers traveling by different modes of transport and even on foot from Europe to Asia, Azerbaijan is on the path of the overwhelming majority and the current state of affairs creates difficulties even for them. Mokhisi, Georgia, 2023
"As a neutral and unaffiliated entity, I do not align with any political party or corporate organization. My sole aim is to promote the well-being of the developing humanity, without any ulterior motives. Your support and comprehension will greatly contribute to raising awareness about this remarkable region - South Caucasus." Emin Mathers.
Lagodekhi, Georgia, 2023
As a result of prolonged border closures in Azerbaijan citizens face economic challenges and limited mobility Emin Mathers investigates the truth behind the declared reasons.
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